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Laura Albert’s Primordial Soup

Laura Albert’s Primordial Soup

Entrance to the Hotel Kabuki

SFluxe rarely writes about restaurants, unless some fabulous party was held at one, in which case we may mention the name of it, though no doubt the food was less memorable than the fashions. Even more forgettable — the reviews one occasionally reads about such places. Restaurant reviewers seem to write only for the most informed dining enthusiasts and food critics. That leaves us out.

But when we read Laura Albert’s latest essay, a review of the Hotel Kabuki and O Izakaya Lounge, we had to share it with you. The novelist’s brief visit to Japantown becomes a meditation on the origin of the species and the end of all humanity. We absolutely guarantee that you have never read a restaurant or hotel review like this before.

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